Tales from North River Mills — Appalachian Forest National Heritage Area

Tales from North River Mills

By Steve Bailes

Take a ride with me through a quiet hamlet. It was once a vibrant, busy community. The Great Wagon Road or Colonial Road was the main road west from Winchester, Virginia. Traveling west eight miles from Fort Edwards (what would later become Capon Bridge) you pass through a gap. Ice Mountain, on your right, extends north while North River Mountain on your left extends south. The earliest known name for the settlement was Parker's Gap, named for Thomas Parker, one of the earliest settlers. When hostilities broke out between the English and the French and their respective Native American allies, Thomas moved his family back east to safety. He left behind land for a fort.

 

Fort Thomas Parker and Sarah Gibbons
Nothing is left of Fort Thomas Parker, one of George Washington's chain of frontier forts. The fort is described in William H. Ansel's book, Frontier Forts Along the Potomac and Its Tributaries. Washington ordered colonial troops to seek and engage hostile Native Americans who threatened settlers. In April 1756, Capt. Richard Pearis led a group who scalped a French officer, Sieur Douville near Fort Thomas Parker. There may have been another skirmish around the same time led by Capt. Joshua Lewis.

Thirteen year old Sarah Gibbons lived near Fort Thomas Parker. During the first Native American attack Sarah was abducted. She was rescued eight years later. Sarah had a mixed-race son, Abraham, who was indentured to Daniel Sowers. Sarah won a court case alleging abuse against Sowers. Abraham then returned to live his life among the Native Americans.

 

James Craik, George Washington's physician
In 1760, Dr. James Craik, Washington's Scottish personal physician, purchased much of the land which Parker had previously owned. Dr. Craik was with Washington at Fort Necessity and later at Braddock's disastrous campaign that attempted to capture the French Fort Duquesne in Pennsylvania. Craik would attend his friend, Washington, when he died. Craik Spring is on the east end of town.

Dr. James Craik (courtesy Old Town Home)

Marker honoring Gustavus Croston (courtesy Steve Bailes)

Gusavus Croston, Revolutionary veteran
Gustavus Croston lived at the bottom of Ice Mountain west of town. He was with Washington at Valley Forge in 1778. After his enlistment expired, he signed up to return to action until the war was won. He fought in the Revolutionary War battles of Kings Mountain, Cowpens, Musgrove Mills, Eutaw Springs, and Ninety-Six. He was captured during the siege and was likely taken to a prison ship in Charleston harbor, South Carolina. He was released after Cornwallis's surrender at Yorktown in October 1781. In 1818 he walked to Richmond for a $12 pension which was later increased to $14.

 

Miller Mill c.1880 (courtesy Steve Bailes)

Evolution of North River Mills
The name, North River Mills, came into use in the 19th century. Johnny B. Miller was commissioned the postmaster of North River Mills (Virginia) in 1840. He owned the inn which was built in 1790. When the Northwest Turnpike was commissioned in 1830, North River Mills was destined to decline while communities along Route 50 would grow.

 

Major George Deaver (courtesy Steve Bailes)

North River Mills in the Civil War

Here is a tale I cannot confirm-- but it's a fun story. During the Civil War both Union and Confederate troops encamped there. A young Confederate stood guard on Raven Rock on Ice Mountain. This point allowed surveillance of the North River Valley, for a great distance north, south and west. The young lookout saw a cloud of dust coming from what would later become Slanesville. He took off down the backside of Ice Mountain, perhaps yelling, "The Yankees is comin'!" A stampede of retreating Confederates headed for Capon Bridge and points east-- away from what they feared were approaching Union soldiers. Major George Deaver caught up with the retreating Rebels, slapping them with the flat of his sword. He managed to reform them, and march them back to Raven Rock. When they inspected the invaders more closely, they were not able to discern whether their sympathies were for the North or the South. But the most important discovery was that they were not soldiers-- but cows!

The Ringgold Cavalry was in North River Mills on August 15, 1862. There was a skirmish on July 3, 1864.

William Frederick Kump, born 1848, was the son of Frederick Kump. In February 1864 William decided to join the Union army. His father was a southern sympathizer. One story tells that the father was very upset and begged the son not to go. Frederick followed William out of North River Mills pleading with him not to go. William kept on to Paw Paw where he lied about his age and enlisted. He apparently said he was eighteen when he was two years younger. He was killed six months later at the battle of Halltown, West Virginia. When William joined the army someone wrote his name William S. instead of William F. Kump. William apparently was illiterate since he only signed with an “X”.

The Miller House, first built in 1790 as an inn (courtesy Steve Bailes)

Capt. William E. Nichols of the 153rd Ohio Volunteer Infantry left letters which were compiled in "Fighting Guerrillas in West Virginia." On May 21, 1864 wrote from Paw Paw. “We started out on the Winchester road and searched for bushwhackers for two days but didn't find any. At length we went to the house of an old Rebel named [Johnnie B.] Miller at North River Mills. The house was a very large one, 100 feet long and two stories high. which we searched thoroughly without success. We ordered Miller, who was the mill owner, to get a nice breakfast for the two officers and the 27 men… They soon had the nicest breakfast I have had since I left home. Hot biscuit, good butter, homemade molasses, corn cakes, coffee, ham and eggs, cucumber pickles. We ate enough for 50 men.

Sallie Miller (courtesy West Virginia & Regional History Collection)

Afterwards we set a guard then went into the parlor and slept on the floor. The next morning we thanked the women for their trouble and had Miller take us across the river in his boat. Then we went after Mr. Hyatt [Asa Hiett], a member of the Rebel senate, whom we found out in the field bringing up his cows. When he saw us he ran like a quarter horse. We fired at him but he disappeared into the woods. We took two of his horses, his bridles and saddles, and all his blankets, haversacks, and canteens...”

While Sallie, Johnnie B. Miller's wife was preparing breakfast, the Union soldiers searched the house for weapons. You can still see where they broke the lock off the closet upstairs.

 

Flourishing North River Mills
North River Mills would continue to be a busy community for many years. It had an overshot mill, an undershot mill and a mill powered with a diesel engine. It had a lime kiln, a blacksmith, a cooper, at least two stores, a one room school and a church. North River Mills has now been designated a historic district on the National Register of Historic Places.

For about three decades the community has hosted a festival or homecoming. Some of the old homes are opened to the public. A hayless wagon ride takes visitors through the old time. Old time music and clogging takes place at the old inn. Hikes are led up the Nature Conservancy's preserve, Ice Mountain. It takes place on Saturday, the day before Mothers Day. We hope you will consider joining us.

North River Mills Day will be on Saturay, May 10th, from 10:00AM to 2:00PM. Find more information by on the website

 

References

Kercheval, Samuel. A History of the Valley of Virginia. Woodstock, VA: John Gatewood, 1850.

Maxwell, Hu and H.L. Swisher, History of Hampshire County, West Virginia, from its earliest settlement to the present. Morgantown, WV: A Brown Boughner, 1897.

More resources: http://stevebailes.org/NRiverMills/Resources.htm